The 10 Best Climbing Harnesses

Updated March 30, 2018 by Chase Brush

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We spent 45 hours on research, videography, and editing, to review the top choices for this wiki. When you're assaulting a summit or rappelling down a sheer rock face, you need to be sure your gear will keep you safe, so pack one of these harnesses for your next adventure and leave any worries at home. They come in enough size and weight capacity options to fit anyone, and are suitable for many styles of climbing. When users buy our independently chosen editorial picks, we may earn commissions to support our work. Skip to the best climbing harness on Amazon.

10. Oumers Half Body

The Oumers Half Body is a low-cost and relatively low-tech setup that, nonetheless, guarantees to hold weight with ease during a fall or a rappel. It's a wise choice for the mountaineer wearing a harness for precaution alone.
  • two doubleback buckles
  • folds down into compact size
  • not approved for use at some gyms
Brand Oumers
Model pending
Weight 16 ounces
Rating 3.8 / 5.0

9. ABC Guide

The ABC Guide is a great value if you're a recreational climber looking to take short day trips to the mountains or spend a few hours at the gym each week. It doesn't include all the bells and whistles of more expensive models, but at this price, it's worth noting.
  • ce certified for safety
  • available in several colors
  • not for prolonged use
Brand ABC
Model 448400
Weight 1.2 pounds
Rating 4.2 / 5.0

8. Fusion Centaur Half Body

The Fusion Centaur Half Body isn't as comfortable or adjustable as other models, nor does it offer as much support. But it is inexpensive and safe, making it a decent backup model for serious climbers or a primary one for use by first responders in emergencies.
  • packs down small when not in use
  • 5000-pound military spec webbing
  • leg straps loosen easily
Brand Fusion
Model TCH-107-2139-3-ORG
Weight 1.2 pounds
Rating 4.5 / 5.0

7. Metolius Safe Tech

If you're looking to invest in a piece of gear that will last through years of use and abuse, the Metolius Safe Tech is it. The bulky, but extremely durable, belt has been around for decades, and is widely respected for its robust, old-school design.
  • dual belay loops minimize clutter
  • fits men and women
  • not the lightest option around
Brand Metolius
Model Metolius
Weight 1.2 pounds
Rating 4.4 / 5.0

6. Petzl Men's Adjama

The Petzl Men's Adjama weighs in at less than a pound, yet can safely support climbers well in excess of 250 pounds with waists nearing 40 inches in circumference. Its EndoFrame construction ensures all that weight is distributed evenly, thereby increasing comfort.
  • sturdy lightweight aluminum buckle
  • great for sport or gym climbing
  • sizes run large
Brand Petzl
Model C22AB M
Weight 16 ounces
Rating 4.1 / 5.0

5. Black Diamond Women's Primrose

The time-saving design of the Black Diamond Women's Primrose means less energy wasted tying in and more energy spent ascending your favorite route, whether it's a finger crack in Yosemite or a 5.10-er in your local gym. The multiple sizes are accurate, too.
  • four gear loops
  • dual core construction
  • adjustable rear elastic riser
Brand Black Diamond
Model BD651069MRCBLG_1-parent
Weight 1.4 pounds
Rating 5.0 / 5.0

4. Arcteryx AR-395a

The Arcteryx AR-395a is specifically crafted to minimize the pressure placed along the edges of the leg and waist loops, resulting in a supremely comfortable setup that is also one of the lightest in its class. It's not cheap, but it doesn't skimp on quality, either.
  • extra-wide leg openings
  • orange wear indicators on belay loop
  • great strength-to-weight ratio
Brand Arc'teryx
Model Arc'teryx
Weight 1.5 pounds
Rating 4.8 / 5.0

3. Edelrid Jay II

For those who dabble as much in long, multi-pitch ascents as they do in quick speed climbs, the all-around Edelrid Jay II has you covered. Movable foam padding sits snugly on the waist, while an abrasion protector at the tie-in point offers added durability.
  • strong load-bearing webbing
  • includes ice screw clips
  • great for larger waist sizes
Model Edelrid
Weight 16 ounces
Rating 4.5 / 5.0

2. Black Diamond Momentum

With pressure-molded loops for carrying loads of gear and thickly padded leg and waist straps, the Black Diamond Momentum is made with the traditional climber in mind. Its trakFIT technology makes tying in a cinch, and the breathable material offers comfort in all seasons.
  • pre-threaded speed adjust buckle
  • bullhorn-shaped waist belt
  • also comes in lava red
Brand Black Diamond
Model BD651068GRPHLG_1
Weight 11.2 ounces
Rating 4.6 / 5.0

1. Petzl Corax

The Petzl Corax is all the things you'd want out of a sport harness, including a low-profile design that feels supple and moves with you while you're in it. It's got enough padding to prevent fatigue during long hours of use, but is also thin enough for summer activities.
  • very versatile construction
  • multiple equipment loops
  • comes with carrying bag
Brand Petzl
Model Petzl
Weight 1.1 pounds
Rating 4.9 / 5.0

The History Of Climbing Harnesses

If you're a climbing enthusiast, you know that having a good harness is as important to you and your sport as comfortable shoes are to a runner, or a good pair of skates to a hockey player. Not only can your technique and enjoyment hinge heavily on what kind of harness you wear — anyone who's spent 20 minutes dangling from a rock face in too tight or too loose a harness can attest to this — but your personal safety depends on it, too. Finding the right one, therefore, is important, whether you're a beginner or a hardcore practitioner.

Climbing harnesses have been around in some form or another for as long as people have been hitching themselves to rope in order to scale obstacles or traverse difficult terrain. In its most basic form, a harness can simply be a piece of rope or a strap tied around the waist and thighs to support one's body weight. This can be a useful safety tool, and is indeed used today as a safety tool in a number of different situations, including by first responders in emergencies and construction workers on building sites. But it's in the sport of rock climbing where the harness has perhaps made the largest impact.

The first harness invented specifically for climbing purposes dates back to the early 19th century, and is usually attributed to Jeanne Immink, a Dutch mountaineer who is also credited as being a pioneer in women's climbing. It wasn't until the next century, however, after British climber Don Whillans wore a specially designed harness during an expedition up Annapurna's South Face in 1970, that the piece of equipment became more widely adopted.

Today, harnesses can come in as many shapes and styles as there are iterations of the sport. Gym and sport climbing calls for speed and flexibility, and harnesses designed for that activity tend to be thinner, lighter, and more stripped down than other kinds. Trad climbing requires the hauling of lots of equipment, and its harnesses incorporate larger and more numerous gear loops, sturdier reinforcements, and thicker padding. In alpine climbing and mountaineering, you may not wear a harness the whole time, so these tend to be loose and easily adjustable, allowing you to put them on and take them off in a hurry.

There are also specialty harnesses, as well as harnesses that combine different aspects of the aforementioned, such as those for ice climbing, which are well-padded, but also light and flexible.

Examining The Anatomy Of Climbing Harnesses

Harnesses may vary slightly depending on their application, but most do share a general anatomy. Understanding the different parts of a harness is an essential step in choosing the right one, not to mention in using it correctly once you get it outside.

The average harness consists of a waist belt, sometimes called a swami belt, connected to two leg loops by thin nylon webbing or elastic at the back and front. Depending on the type of harness, these can incorporate different degrees of padding, or, in the most basic models, none at all. The waist belt should have one or two strong metal buckles at the front for fastening the harness securely to the body, while each leg loop may or may not have adjustment mechanisms.

Many harnesses will also have gear loops, though the number, size, and nature of these will vary. As previously mentioned, trad climbing harness should have large, possibly metal loops for holding carabiners and quickdraws, while on sport climbing harness these loops may be made of nylon or some other soft material. The haul loop is positioned at the back of the waist and is used to attach a second rope, though not all harnesses will have this.

Two of the most important parts of the harness, at least in terms of safety, are the belay loop and tie-in points, which together connect the two leg loops to the waist belt at the front. The belay loop is usually the strongest part of the harness and the only piece that is load-tested, while the tie-in points are separated to help distribute weight. It's important not to confuse the two, as the former, though tough, is not designed to attach to your main rope.

Taking The Proper Safety Precautions

As in all sports, safety is a chief concern — though that may be even more true when it comes to rock climbing. Not every hobby has its participants scaling thousand-foot rock faces using little more than their hands and some rope.

Before buying a new harness, make sure its meets industry safety standards. Most reputable commercial climbing harnesses should be approved by either the International Mountaineering And Climbing Federation or the European Committee Standardization, both of which have developed strict guidelines manufacturers must follow to ensure the reliability and durability of their products.

Considering their purpose, climbing harnesses are an area where you should let yourself splurge a little — it's better to spend a little more and get a good-quality harness than hold back and have to worry later whether your equipment is going to fail.

If you're a climbing beginner, learn the ropes — literally. Most rock gyms and parks should offer resources to novices just getting into the sport, including lessons on how to properly fit your harness, tie the appropriate knots, and belay your partner. There's really no better way to figure out how to use your equipment safely and effectively than being taught by someone who does.

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Last updated on March 30, 2018 by Chase Brush

Chase is a freelance journalist with experience working in the areas of politics and public policy. Currently based in Brooklyn, NY, he is also a hopeless itinerant continually awaiting his next Great Escape.

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