10 Best Jumper Cables | March 2017
- wide clip handles for extra leverage
- bright color is easy to see at night
- jaws are rather small
- aggressive parrot jaw shape
- can span multiple parking spots
- included bag is poor quality
- available in multiple gauges
- good flexibility in cold weather
- cable never gets crimped
- case has extra room for some tools
- fully rubber coated wires
- slightly textured clamp handles
- good amount of insulation
- rounded bag for compact storage
- comfortable clamp grips
- include a pair of safety gloves
- good conductivity
- teeth provide a secure grip
- work on side and top post batteries
- cables never get tangled up
- suitable for all weather conditions
Getting a Jump On Things: Buying Jumper Cables
If you don't have a pair of jumper cables in your car, you are inviting inconvenience into your life. While the average car battery lifespan is five years, many fail in much less time than that. And even a perfectly viable battery can be drained in a matter of hours when you inadvertently leave on the headlights or a dome light, rendering your car incapable of turning on. And should the car battery die when you most need your vehicle, such as when you have a critical appointment to keep or even when an emergency necessitates sudden travel, a drained battery can be worse than inconvenient, it can be a disaster.
While it's fine to think of jumper cables as more of an insurance item -- e.g. something wise to have though seldom used -- than a tool you will need in daily life, making the modest investment in a pair of decent cables is not only wise, but indeed it is folly not to own them.
Jumper cables can cost anywhere from $10 to $150 or more. As you might expect, paying more will generally ensure you wind up with a high quality pair that can last for a decade or more, and can jump a range of vehicle types from a little four cylinder Honda Civic to a heavy-duty Ford 3500 pick-up truck. If you use them but once in all the years you drive a car, they will generally have paid for themselves as calling for a tow or other roadside assistance is very costly.
If you are going to purchase lower-end jumper cables, then you will almost surely be considering options designed only for use with standard 12-volt automotive batteries and smaller engines. One of the main things to consider on this end of the scale is the length of the cable. If your car or truck has its battery placed to one side of the engine block and is easily accessible when the hood is raised, such as is common with most cars, then it will be easy to locate and connect to the the battery terminals with a shorter pair of cables.
If your vehicle has its battery placed in an unusual spot, such as in the rear or set deep into the engine compartment, longer cables will be needed for a safe, clean connection. Jumper cables commonly measure 12-feet in length; surprisingly, these might fall short in many scenarios, especially if you are trying to connect two large vehicles (heavy duty pickup trucks, for example) and/or cars with unusual battery placement as already noted.
More expensive, heavy-duty cables, such as those rated 6 gauge or less, can be expected to work both with 12- and 24-volt batteries and to be safe for 500 amp loads and higher. These are usually suitable for automobiles as well as for heavy machinery such as might be found on a farm or in construction work. Look for special features such as glow-in-the-dark handles, non-kinking flexible rubber coatings, and of course lengths of up to 25 feet.
The Basic Steps of Jump Starting a Car
A car with an effectively dead battery may fail to give any indication of power, or it might create a repetitive clicking sound when you try the ignition. Once you have established that your car's battery is dead or so low on charge that it cannot start your vehicle, stop trying to turn it on to reduce the risk of damaging the car's electrical system.
The first step to jump starting a car is to position the afflicted vehicle and the car or truck providing the jump close enough that your cables can easily span the distance between the two engines. Make sure the vehicles are not touching, are turned off with keys removed, and have their parking brakes set.
Next make sure you can clearly identify the positive and negative terminals on both batteries and that they are clean and free of obstructions. Once you are ready to connect the cables, ensure the clamps cannot accidentally touch each other and start by connecting the red/positive cable to the drained battery's positive terminal (marked with a +), then the other positive clamp to the charge source. Next connect the black/negative cable to the powered car's negative battery terminals (shown with a -). Unlike when connecting the positive wire, you connect the negative wire to the car doing the jumping first. On the car being jumped (the one with the dead battery) the negative cable clamp should be attached directly to an exposed metal section of the frame, not the battery. This eliminates the risk of potentially igniting the battery from sparks or causing it to explode.
Now turn on the functioning car, pause for a full minute, then switch on the afflicted vehicle. As soon as the second car has started, you may disconnect the cables, starting with the negative clamps first.
From this point on, the vehicle's running engine will charge its own battery assuming the alternator is functioning properly and the battery is still capable of holding a charge.
Other Jump Starting Accessories to Consider
Along with its set of jumper cables, at the bare minimum your car's roadside preparedness kit should include all the tools and supplies needed to change a tire, a supply of water, and a source of light. (A headlamp is far and away the most useful device for illumination in this context.) Also consider keeping a car escape tool close at hand, ideally in the glove box or center console.
As for the gear that can help to make the jump starting process safer and less of a hassle, some simple supplies will serve you well if ever needed. First, consider keeping a pair of work gloves in your car, with*electrician's gloves being a particularly savvy choice, as they can reduce the chance of electric shock. Also stock a clean rag and a solvent solution, such as isopropyl alcohol -- these will help clean battery terminals.
A large umbrella or plastic tarp that can be draped over the hood of a vehicle are both a good idea for use when dealing with a car battery during rainfall or snow. Also beware of puddles of water on the ground in these conditions.
And finally, make sure you establish a highly visible working area while jumping a car. This means using the flashers of the car with the working battery, but also the deployment of cones and reflectors and potentially even road flares. All of these items are affordable and, when used effectively as safety gear, priceless.