The 9 Best Straight Razors
Special Honors
Ezra Arthur + Max Sprecher Signature with a full-sized 8/8-inch hollow-ground blade, you shouldn't have any trouble attaining any type of facial hair style with the Ezra Arthur + Max Sprecher Signature. Also, its blade is forged from carbon steel that boasts a hardness rating of Rockwell hardness of 63, so it will retain its edge well after a sharpening. ezraarthur.com
Blue Steel "Not a Replica" The Blue Steel "Not a Replica" has a squared edge at the tip of the blade for fine detailing, and it features an attractive matte black handle that gives it a masculine look. It is handmade in the United States by skilled artisans, and it includes a deerskin sleeve and a hex wrench for tightening the pivot pin. baxterofcalifornia.com
Editor's Notes
June 25, 2021:
The only major change made here was the introduction of the Thiers Issard Sabatier. If you're looking for an ultra-premium option and are experienced with using a leather strop, this ultra-fine model offers just about the best performance possible. Luckily, it's a "buy it for life" type of razor, as it costs an incredible amount compared to many. At the other end of the spectrum, models with replaceable blades, like the Equinox International Professional BC-STL/100B, cost very little. The Dovo Prima 1161 remains our top premium choice for most users thanks to its elegant construction, premium alloy, and mid-range price.
February 04, 2020:
For men who take pride in their appearance, and especially their facial hair (or lack of it), shaving is an important step in their daily grooming. And if you are really serious about it, a straight razor is the only way to go. Though difficult to use at first, when held by an experienced user, they allow for a closer and more detailed shave than disposable razors. Because of this, we recommend watching plenty of YouTube videos and maybe even getting some advice from your barber before trying your hand at this more traditional style of shaving.
During this update, we decided to eliminate the Parker SR1. Though it can be a quality razor and comes for a low price, the seeming lack of quality control means that some purchasers may get an item they are disappointed in. We also removed the Black Widow Executive, since it is essentially the same as the Black Widow Executive Series, which we retained on the list and we felt there was no need to have both.
We have decided to include both shavettes and traditional straight razors here, since we feel that many people may be unfamiliar with the difference and most beginners may actually prefer a shavette when first starting out with straight razor shaving. For the initiated, a shavette has the form of a straight razor but utilizes replaceable disposable blades, so the user won't have to deal with stroping and sharpening their blade regularly. The Black Widow Executive Series, Feather ACS-NB, Classic Samurai CS-102, Feather SS Folding ACS-RB,Equinox International Professional BC-STL/100B, and Sanguine Wood-r5 all fall into this category.
On the other hand, a traditional straight razor, like the Dovo Prima 1161, Thiers Issard Fox and Rooster, Dovo Inox, and Black Ops Grooming BlackAF, features a fixed blade that is permanently attached to the handle. These are best reserved for users who are ready to take on the responsibility of keeping the edge of their razor sharp. It is worth mentioning though, that the heavier weight of traditional straight razors can make it less likely to nick yourself since you won't have to apply too much extra pressure and you can simply let your shaving tool do most of the work. They also have a slightly thicker blade than the disposable ones used in shavettes, which can also help reduce accidental cuts. This means they can actually be a better choice for someone first trying their hand at straight razor shaving.
Clearing The Forest
Thankfully, we don't have to use sharpened clams to achieve today's lofty beauty standards.
Human beings have engaged in body-hair removal for all of recorded history. Even prehistoric man would scrape unwanted hairs away using sharpened stones or clam shells. Metal tools capable of shaving have been unearthed in 6,000-year-old Egyptian tombs — in fact, the men of some ancient cultures would all traditionally shave their heads, possibly to aid in hand-to-hand combat.
While most men of our modern culture engage in considerably less fist fighting on a daily basis, there's still plenty of reason for them to shave. A smooth chin can make an important first impression on a big date, or help you look sharp and organized when you close the deal with that high-dollar client. Also, as many women will attest, freshly-shaven skin just feels better — to men ant their partners.
Thankfully, we don't have to use sharpened clams to achieve today's lofty beauty standards. With all of our modern technology, there is certainly a variety of ways to keep stubble at bay. A lot of guys choose to use a utilitarian electric shaver. These get the job done quickly, but definitely don't provide that smooth-as-silk feeling that the cheek so relishes.
The traditional safety razor has undergone a facelift in the last two decades, as well. A far cry from the standard, plastic, disposable type, some models even feature vibration and as many as five parallel blades to make shaving more effective. But in over 300 years of use, the straight razor as we know it has consistently given one of the closest shaves available. And with the right technique and upkeep, it can be very easy and economical as well.
Why Use A Straight Razor?
One of the great reasons to use this old-school shaving method is evidenced by the discovery of intact metal shaving tools from the 4th century B.C.E. A quality knife, kept well, can pass down through generations without losing its effectiveness.
But with care, attention, and patience, straight razors can shear the hair from your face as quickly and safely as other tools.
Professional-quality models are made from a number of different high-hardness steels. Stainless steel is easier to care for and retains a good edge even with moderate upkeep. Carbon steel, popular among many enthusiasts, often holds a sharper edge for longer, but requires more experience to properly hone and a bit more work to maintain and protect. A lot of prominent brands use their own proprietary alloys with special inclusions such as silver or extra chromium, offering certain improvements to hardness and edge retention.
A good cut-throat blade might set you back quite a bit more than a pack of disposable razors. But it's the last one you'll ever have to buy, and the traditional barber's tool will give you a tighter and more comfortable shave than a safety razor ever could. Furthermore, for those facial hair artists in the crowd, the highest precision manscaping can only be done with a perfectly honed piece of metal.
Of course, using this retro beauty technique can be slightly off-putting, especially the first few times you're running that razor-sharp blade across your neck. But with care, attention, and patience, straight razors can shear the hair from your face as quickly and safely as other tools. Many cut-throat aficionados will agree that the user has far more control of an open blade than they do of the fixed-style apparatus used in safety razors that's often shrouded in plastic and gets irreparably dull after multiple uses.
Getting The Most From Your Blade
Like any knife, shaving implements become dull with use. The upkeep of a straight razor is similar to the care of any other high-quality knife. Actually, the steel used in many razor blades is comparable to that used in a lot of high-end chef's knives — some of which have directly borrowed alloys from successful razor smiths, to great culinary success. And, while the care of your heirloom-quality tool does require a certain soft touch, it's actually pretty simple, and it's something you can master with a little practice.
This is especially true for carbon-steel blades to keep them from oxidizing, pitting, and rusting.
Let's start by touching on the concept of sharpness. A truly sharp knife has a finely tapered edge that's free from nicks and distortions, even on a microscopic level. As a blade encounters objects of varying resilience, the very edge is forced out of true. Over time, the edge curls over ever so slightly, preventing a clean cut.
Kitchen knives require frequent sharpening because they have to cut through a lot of food items that are rather hard. Because razors only ever meet damp hair, they tend to need less sharpening so long as they are properly honed. The honing process used on a straight razor is also known as stropping. The tool used (a strop) is nothing more than a leather band of a consistent smoothness that's securely anchored on one end. The barber simply pulls the strop tight and runs the razor backward down its length using gentle pressure and moderate speed.
It's a pretty simple process, but it does require a bit of practice and attention to detail. For example, too much pressure can result in increasingly rolled edges, and anything but a perfectly clean blade can damage the strop and, subsequently, the razor itself. After stropping, you should finish your blade with oil before storage. This is especially true for carbon-steel blades to keep them from oxidizing, pitting, and rusting.
Of course, as when using any hair-removal product, care should be taken to ensure personal safety. Just like any tools, your shaving kit is safest when everything is in full, working order. Luckily, a straight razor makes that maintenance easy, and leads to a great final product: your beautiful, smooth face.
Please use caution when shaving the face or other sensitive areas.