9 Best Electric Chainsaws | March 2017
- tool-less chain adjustments
- requires minimal maintenance
- poor battery life
- bar and chain made by oregon
- electric brake stop
- not strong enough for heavy jobs
- long 18-inch bar
- ergonomic full-wrap front handle
- 3-year manufacturer's warranty
- rarely ever stalls
- push-button oiler
- a full charge lasts up to one hour
- allows for quick saw adjustments
- lightweight and easy to maneuver
- clear oil gauge window
- only takes 1 hour to charge
- safety chain brake
- instant electric starter
It's Electric: Choosing A Chainsaw
Electric chainsaws are clean and easy to operate, with none of the gasoline and oil blending their combustion-engine-powered counterparts require, and none of the accompanying odors or spills, either. These saws also start up without that annoying pull-cord mechanism, and can be shut off more easily as well. And thanks to the many powerful battery operated chainsaws on the market today, no longer are these electric tools limited to the length of your extension cord.
Once you have committed to buying an electric chainsaw, the first decision you should make is whether you want a battery powered or a corded tool. A battery powered chainsaw can go anywhere at any time and is quite convenient, right up to the moment at which its battery runs out of juice, anyway. You can mitigate this issue by purchasing a second battery, but if you have a lot of cutting to do, even with one battery charging while the other is at work, chances are good that you will have a fair amount of downtime waiting for a recharge.
So balance the convenience of full portability with the patience needed for charging batteries. With the lack of range inherent in a plug in chainsaw comes the fact that it will never run out of power barring a blackout. (Even gasoline chainsaws require a pause for refilling.)
The next issue to consider, regardless of power source, is the blade length you need. If you're felling trees, you need a chainsaw with a large, long bar. For true timber cutting, consider models with at least a sixteen-inch bar, or better yet, look for eighteen-inch bar chainsaws. If you're more concerned with chopping up limbs to fit them in a dumpster or wood chipper or with cutting down fallen logs into firewood, a shorter blade should suffice.
And know that the range of pricing in the electric chainsaw category cuts both ways. You can get a decent tool for around a hundred dollars, but if you want a real power house of a machine, you will spend a least two hundred dollars or more.
Safe And Proper Tree Felling With A Chainsaw
Used properly, chainsaws are not dangerous to their operator or anyone nearby. Used improperly, chainsaws are incredibly dangerous devices. This danger stems not only from the actual whirling blade protruding from the tool's powerful motor, but also from the chance for improperly felled trees or limbs to cause injury -- in fact some studies show that nearly 90 percent of chainsaw-related deaths resulted not from contact with the tool itself but from the impact of a tree trunk or branch.
The most common source of injury with a chainsaw is from kickback when the saw encounters an area of material, such as a knot, through which it cannot immediately cut. The chain catches and transfers its energy to the tool itself, sending the chainsaw bouncing upward toward the operator. To minimize the chance of a dangerous kickback, never cut with the tip of the saw and avoid cutting with the first few inches of the top of the blade. Also always make sure both of your hands are firmly grasping the saw before you make contact with lumber.
To properly cut down a small or medium sized tree (leave larger trees to the experts), first cut a wedge shaped notch in the direction you wish the tree to fall. This wedge, often called an undercut, should be cut into the side of the tree toward which it is likely to fall based on its shape or its location on a slope. To fell your prepared tree, slowly and steadily cut into it across from the undercut, ceasing your action before you have cut all the way through the tree.
Leaving this hinge of wood prevents the tree from jumping off of its stump, potentially causing serious injury. Now move well away from the tree and bring it down using ropes or pressure applied by poles once everyone is away from the trunk and out of the tree's downward path.
The Other Gear You Should Get
If you're using a chainsaw properly, you're also using several other pieces of gear at the same time. The most obvious and necessary item you should be using at all times when operating a chainsaw is a pair of safety glasses or **goggles. A chainsaw sends dust and scraps of wood flying; the former can irritate your eyes, while the latter can cause a serious injury, scratching the cornea or worse. To put it simply, you should never use a chainsaw without something covering your eyes.
The next thing the savvy chainsaw operator uses is hearing protection. A set of safety earmuffs is the best way to protect your ears while operating a noisy chainsaw, but a pair of regular earplugs is better than nothing if need be.
While your hands should be totally safe from cuts while you operate a chainsaw (provided you are using the tool properly), a pair of protective work gloves is still a smart choice during chainsaw use. Gloves protect your hands from scratches or cuts resulting from rough pieces of wood or from debris sent flying by the saw, and can help you maintain a firm and comfortable grip on the tool and/or on any lumber or timber you need to cut through.
Finally it's a good idea to wear sturdy work boots and a good pair of thick bluejeans (or other durable pants). No one ever plans to drop a chainsaw or have the blade buck wildly, but if either of those things happen, you'll be glad you were wearing the right gear for the occasion.