6 Best Post Hole Diggers | April 2017
- all steel construction
- welded pivot joint
- rust-resistant finish
|Rating||3.8 / 5.0|
- assembles in minutes
- one 4 x 30-inch auger bit included
- prone to sticking in wet soil
|Rating||4.0 / 5.0|
- fiberglass core for strength
- good weight balance
- not ideal for sandy soil
|Rating||4.7 / 5.0|
- 14-gauge steel construction
- tight closure for easy load removal
- heavier than similar diggers
|Brand||The AMES Companies, Inc|
|Rating||4.5 / 5.0|
- blade measures 6 inches
- solid maple handles
- tough malleable iron yoke
|Rating||4.6 / 5.0|
- solid steel drive shaft
- two-cycle engine
- epa approved and carb certified
|Brand||Southland Outdoor Power|
|Rating||4.8 / 5.0|
Picking A Post Hole Digger
Installing a fence is not a project people take on for amusement. It can be thankless, tiresome, backache-inducing work, and can take longer than expected for the uninitiated. The only way to make the installation of a fence -- or the digging of post holes intended to hold up a signpost, a flagpole, or supports for a deck or patio -- is to use the right tools.
Not only will an improperly installed fence look poor, but it will serve its purpose poorly as well, soon enough sagging and even collapsing outright. The overall strength and integrity of a structure depends on how well each and every supporting hole is sunk and filled. So put the shovel aside and get yourself a dedicated post hole digger.
There are two broad categories of post hole diggers, each coming with a few variations. Generally speaking, you must choose either a human-powered post hole digger or a motor-powered unit. As will likely come as no surprise, the former category includes the more affordable options, while post hole diggers operated by a motor tend to be rather expensive. But that is not to say one is better than the other; choosing the right tool for you means assessing the specific parameters of the projects at hand.
Hand-operated post hole diggers usually come in two basic types: the first is a unit that is twisted into the ground much like a cork screw, loosening soil and rending roots as it delves. The second uses a pair of spade-like attachments to cut down into the ground and then uses the leverage provided by twin handles to lift out a chunk of earth, leaving a hole behind.
This digging and scooping action leaves a clean hole almost immediately ready for use (e.g. placement of a post or pole), but does not allow the operator to delve down much deeper than the length of the blades. The screw in type of hole digger allows for much deeper penetration, but also requires more subsequent dirt and debris removal. One idea for the person who wants to efficiently sink extra deep post holes is to use both tools.
If you have lots of post holes to dig, you might want to spend the cash to get a motorized unit. The amount of time you will save will ultimately more than compensate for the cost. These tools can be either gasoline-powered or run by electricity. As an electric post hole digger requiring access to an AC outlet can be difficult to use if you are installing a fence out in open pastures or along a forest trail, gas-powered units are usually the go to choice for actual fence posts. Electric units are great for use around worksites where holes are being sunk to support construction.
When considering a powered post hole digger, consider the measurements of auger length (which equates to potential depth) and width; these factors determine the overall size of your holes.
Other Items To Have On Hand When Digging Post Holes
If you want to create a great fence -- one that will last for years and stand up to the elements -- then digging good post holes is only part of the process. Before you ever sink your post hole digger into the ground, you have to spend the time to plan out where the fence will go, measure the land, and choose the right materials to use.
The first step to planning a fence is to use a reliable measuring wheel and walk the entire perimeter of the fence line. Once you know the length of the fence at hand, you can select the positioning for the post holes based off the land and off the material you will be using. It's a good idea to walk the perimeter using the measuring wheel again to make sure you place the post holes evenly. Mark the spot for digging clearly using bright spray paint or by sticking actual marking stakes into the ground.
Once you have dug your post holes, the placement of the actual posts and the attachment of the subsequent cross beams, slats and/or wire (and other materials) should be conducted using a level to ensure you maintain uniformity along the entire fence. That will help improve both the aesthetics and the function of the barrier.
Post Hole Digger Safety Considerations
One of the most important considerations you must weigh before installing a fence is not where you will sink your post holes, but where you must not dig. Especially if you are using an auger/drill-style post hole digger, you must take extreme precaution to avoid boring a hole down into buried gas lines, water lines, power cables, sewer systems, and more.
If you have any doubts about where it is or is not safe to dig a post hole, turn to the local town or regional experts for information. You should be able to retrieve information about all buried utility lines with ease and, in most cases, at no cost.
Make sure you also take into account the potential presence of other materials such as traps or landscape fabrics, old wires or cables potentially covered by grass or soil, and so forth; anything that can become tangled in the rotating auger can damage the tool and potentially draw an operator's foot or leg toward the powerful, whirling bit.
Take the time to read through your tool's manual and know all of its operating features before you ever turn it on. When using any post hole digger, it's a good idea to wear protective gloves and thick work boots. If you're operating a motor-driven post hole digger, you should also have on safety eyewear and potentially hearing protection, too. Safety comes first with these and all tools.